2023年11月
这个平原, standard-issue ledger contains the daily menus of the Berkeley Hotel of Boston between February and July of 1903. 的 ledger was once 在 possession of Anthony Mario Brunella (1882-1968), 科普利广场酒店的领班, 虽然他不是菜单的创造者. 布鲁内拉是意大利移民,1904年抵达波士顿.
伯克利酒店 was built in 1870 on the corner of Berkeley and Boylston streets in Boston’s newly developed Back Bay neighborhood. 被称为伯克利之家, 它最初是一家“家庭旅馆”,主要由住宅公寓组成. 的 exterior resembled the brownstone townhomes that lined Boylston between Arlington and Berkeley, 屋顶上有山墙和护墙. It was also centrally located to all that the Back Bay had to offer: the Public Garden, 艺术广场(科普利广场), 美术学院(美术博物馆), and the Boston and Providence Railway station (Back Bay Station) were all within walking distance. 的 Boston Society of Natural History (Museum of Science) and Massachusetts Institute of Technology were across the street.
In 1900, the hotel purchased the brownstone next door and undertook a major renovation project to expand the capacity of the Berkeley. 的 波士顿家庭杂志 reported on 5 May 1900 that the hotel would no longer operate as a family hotel. 在11月3日的杂志上 杂志 包括手机网赌软件排行榜改造酒店的更多细节. 大型欧式平面餐厅, 美式餐厅, 计划中还增加了一家烘焙店. 的 hotel would also have electricity throughout the building, 这使它成为可能, 除此之外, 把饮用水冷冻在瓶子里. 1901年同一份报纸上的广告 touted the hotel as a “convenient 午餐ing place for ladies” with a separate café for men and billiards available until midnight.
尽管进行了这些翻新,但这家改善后的旅馆还是短暂的. 1905年4月3日, 《十大正规网赌网址》报道伯克利信托基金, 酒店的老板, planned to demolish the building and replace it with a new mercantile building that included retail stores on the ground floor and salesrooms above. 由此产生的美术风格 伯克利的建筑, 由Stephen Codman和Constant Desire Despradelle设计, 至今仍屹立不倒, 波士顿最著名的建筑瑰宝之一.
如今,伯克利酒店已经没有多少人记得了, but this menu ledger provides a glimpse into what was the hub of the hotel: the kitchen. 在账簿的左边几页, 这是每天的早餐菜单, 午餐, 和晚餐, 而主菜的价格点在右边. Different p大米 points for the same entrée may reflect the distinction between the European plan, in which patrons are charged for meals in addition to their room, 和美国的计划, 哪里的餐费包含在顾客的住宿费用中.
Breakfast typically included a “cake”—most likely a pancake—made with some type of flour or meal, 一般小麦, 荞麦, 大米, 或玉米粉. 除了每天的蛋糕, 有海鲜和手机网赌软件排行榜供品, 后者通常是香肠, 炖肉, 或散列. On Sundays the hotel deviated from this formula and served Boston baked beans with brown bread and codfish balls. Lunches featured 炖肉s and chowders with fish and meat options and were always served with rotating sides of various potato and green vegetable dishes. 晚餐菜单也差不多, 提供手机网赌软件排行榜菜肴,如烤羊肉, 菠菜熏牛舌, 爱尔兰炖饺子, 菲力牛排, 还有巴黎盆栽鸽子, 可能类似于 这个1914年的食谱 for potted squab (a young pigeon) published by the Southern Pacific Railway. 甜点包括草莓蛋挞, 条状拿, 大米布丁, 还有各种各样的蛋糕, 多亏了现场烘焙店.
分类帐似乎抓住了一个创造性的, 有时匆忙, 酒店厨房的活动水平. 菜单项被划掉, and additions or substitutions to daily menus appear as though they were quickly scribbled in with pencil as market availability forced changes to the day’s plan, or if an unexpected ingredient--like strawberries in February--were suddenly available. 在几页纸上,涂鸦着 人鱼 and livestock are drawn 在 margins, the act of, perhaps, a daydreaming chef. 的 restaurant’s dishes were mostly French or New England inspired, 但也有意大利菜, 印度, 以及西非的影响. This latter is seen most prominently 在 hotel’s frequent offering of one particular soup called 费城胡椒罐, 午餐和晚餐都吃什么.
胡椒锅汤起源于西非. Enslaved people from that region brought pepper pot with them to the West Indies, 在哪里加入了咸肉, 从那里,汤来到了费城, 与西印度群岛进行贸易的国家. 的 soup utilized the common formula of using what meats and vegetables were available and was adapted to suit local preferences. 食谱 《手机网赌软件排行榜》出版于 烹饪的新艺术 (1792) 用牛腩, 小牛肉, 还有羊肉和根茎类蔬菜, 绿色, 和龙虾, and instructs the cook to season it “very hot with Cayan pepper.” Over the years as the 配方 continued to be adapted, tripe and 小牛肉 were more frequently utilized. 从19世纪初开始, pepper pot was cooked and sold as street food by free black women, 正如在 约翰·刘易斯·克里梅尔1811年的一幅画.
的 widespread fame of pepper pot soup lies in Revolutionary myth. 克里斯托弗Ludwick, baker general to George Washington and a German immigrant to Philadelphia, was long given credit for creating pepper pot for Washington’s hungry troops at Valley Forge during the winter of 1777. 被誉为“赢得战争的汤”,” Philadelphia pepper pot was later sold as a canned soup by Campbell’s and immortalized by 安迪·沃霍尔的金宝汤系列. 尽管金宝在2010年停止了他们的汤, pepper pot still has its own day on the calendar—December 29—due in large part to its Revolutionary War “origin story.”
的 soup was so much a part of Philadelphia’s culture that the city’s 1901年的感恩节,三叶草俱乐部用它来庆祝感恩节. 差不多在同一时间, 配方s for the soup were found in local papers across the United States, 几乎和家里的厨师一样多. 可悲的是, the Berkeley Hotel’s 配方 for their 版本 of the soup is unknown, but its frequent appearance on the menu indicates that regardless of season or meal, 费城胡椒罐一直是人们的最爱.
作者:Stephanie Call,手稿馆长
ABIGAIL (Massachusetts Historical Society's online library catalog) includes a 为伯克利酒店的菜单分类账提供书目记录.
Early 20th century newspapers printed a variety of 配方s for Pepper Pot Soup:
的 托皮卡州立杂志 配方 noted that “the genuine Philadelphia pepper pot is made very hot and plenty of pepper corns are added which give it the name.”
的 印第安纳波利斯日报》 版本 added heavy cream and green peppers, but reduced the amount of peppercorns.
的 太平洋商业广告公司 版本 包括用饼干面团做成的饺子.
比格斯,特蕾西. “胡椒锅汤:赢得战争的汤” 在 迈诺特每日新闻2017年1月4日.
波士顿地标委员会. 伯克利的建筑, 1975.
威廉斯堡殖民地历史美食之路. "胡椒锅汤" 2002年10月28日.
艾伦·加尔珀. “Building Boston’s Back Bay: marriage of money and hygiene” in 马萨诸塞州历史杂志,卷. 23, no. 1(1995年冬季),页. 61-78.
霍普金斯,汤娅. 《十大正规网赌网址》 in 费城公民报2019年9月3日.
伯克利和博伊尔斯顿街道地图 in Atlas of the city of Boston : Boston proper : from actual surveys and official plans. 费城:G. W. 布罗姆利1898.
萨马科,安东尼·米切尔. 后湾穿越时空. 阿卡迪亚出版社,2018.
塔普林,特蕾莎·阿尔提里. 《手机网赌软件排行榜》 in 大费城百科全书. 罗格斯大学,2020年.